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 Active wear market prefers non-mulesed wool 

Active wear market prefers non-mulesed wool

19 Aug, 2009 05:51 PM
E-WOOL managing director Peter Vandeleur has warned there is still considerable global demand for wool from un-mulesed sheep from the growing active-wear market, and that there is a danger of losing this market if customer needs are not met.

But a largely upbeat Mr Vandeleur told Rural Press this week that the demand for Merino was building in the outdoor leisure market, and he linked the prospect of further Merino wool sales to the natural light weight characteristics it contained.

Mr Vandeleur comments came after he spent two weeks in the United States, including four days at the outdoor retailer exhibition in Salt Lake City, seeking out opportunities for his NewMerino branded wool supply.

NewMerino wool is supplied from wool growers who adhere to a strict code of practice so traceability can be achieved.

Mr Vandeleur said every outdoor clothes retailer he spoke to had "at least" some of its program using Merino, a marked difference from three years ago.

"What I am confident about is they are almost all looking to Merino as a way of improving their range and image," Mr Vandeleur said.

He said the term Merino was used to describe Merino wool and 18.5-19.5 micron wool was the most common wool type used in the next of skin performance and special purpose garments.

He cautioned Australian wool growers against assuming retailer angst towards surgical mulesing was a phase, and that the market would work itself out.

Mr Vandeleur said that although Merino appeared to be making ground in the active wear and leisure wear market and had exhibited "vast improvement" over the past 12-18 months, he warned retailers had "all made" decisions to have certified non-mulesed wool and this had been stipulated to suppliers.

"I didn't meet one (retailer) who didn't say this," he said.

"They want certainty, they want trace back that is legitimate and to say that it is not mulesed is not good enough," he said.

Mr Vandeleur's optimism for the active wear market echoes sentiments shared by Australian Wool Innovation’s global manager sports/outdoor, Lars Ulvesund, who said the AWI team was now writing up new business and expanding its supply chain network following the successful global launch of Merino Perform outdoor trade shows in Salt Lake City in January and Germany last month.

"As a consequence of this and other selling activity over the past 10 years, Merino is now heavily featured in the majority of the world’s sports brands," Mr Ulvesund said.

Mr Ulvesund said there was an unprecedented growth trend for Merino wool in active wear in all major apparel markets and capturing this market growth was a key part of AWI’s new strategic and operational plan.

He said growth in demand for Merino wool in the active wear segment, particularly in Europe and the US, was bucking the global trend of a decline in the overall apparel segment.

Mr Ulvesund said brands which had traditionally favoured synthetic fibres were switching to wool, recognising the fibre's superior natural qualities of breathability, insulation and next-to-skin comfort.

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comments


Date: Newest first | Oldest first
Another clear market signal for woolgrowers.
Posted by watchdog, 20/08/2009 8:28:35 AM
So when are these retailers going to pay a realistic price for wool so that it is viable to produce the stuff?
Posted by jerangle, 20/08/2009 10:45:23 AM
It is about time farmers started publishing photographs of fly struck sheep. The sight of a lamb with maggots eating their way into its guts through its umbilical cord or a fly struck ewe would change a few ideas.

It is a pity the smell cannot be bottled, that would have a few ignorant protesters rethinking their ideas after they had finished emptying their breakfast out.

Yes, mulesing it painful, but it happens only once in a sheep's life but the alternative slow death by being eaten alive is agonising.

Posted by Jaycie, 20/08/2009 10:47:18 AM
Why keep the issue alive, Mr Vandaleur? Did you try and defend us? Why not talk about the other attributes of Merino wool, rather than an essential animal husbandry practice to protect our sheep? How are you helping?
Posted by jim hawkin, 20/08/2009 11:04:53 AM
Spot on, Jaycie. The hypocrisy of the anti-muelsing campaigners makes them very vulnerable to some of their own medicine. A campaign that links "feelgood posturing" = "outrageous cruelty" is the only thing that will restore the brand image of wool.

Start with footage of some farm kids running to tell their dad how their favourite ewe (Bonnie?) is down with fly strike. Then have Dad explaining to them that there is nothing he can do about it because the animal libbers told lies to the customers. Have the kids ask dad: how come the customers don't understand that muelsing is still the only realistic option. And have dad explain that he's too busy looking after the sheep while the libbers have all the time in the world to tell lies about us.

Have dad tell the kids how "Bonnie" can't be left to suffer so cruely and then finish with the kids sobbing as Dad walks along the ridge with the rifle. [Add punch line of choice]

Posted by Ian Mott, 20/08/2009 11:23:01 AM
This whole depate has gone out of control due largely to the fact that grower representatives have allowed manufacturers to walk all over wool growers.

The product is already one of the most natural fibres available to the market and yet it isn't good enough for retailers because it doesn't fit into their ethical treatment for animals standards. What a load of bollocks!

I would like to see manufacturers display to the world the working conditions of their machine operators in South East Asia and China.

I would also like American manufacturers to display to us the hourly rate of pay for their workers who work in non-governmental zones in Mexico. What a bunch of hypocrits! If they want non-mulesed wool, they can have it, but they will have to pay through the nose for it because it just isn't that simple to convert an entire nation of wool producing operations to non-mulesing production.

AWI and others including the various Merino Breeders groups need to take a tougher stance on this and throw it back at the manufacturers and make some of their own demands for a change.

It is our industry. We should run it on our terms.

Posted by Eden, 20/08/2009 12:22:58 PM
Thanks, Watchdog. It is when you are actually negotiating business that you get the real market signals.

Jerangle, let me assure you we are getting premium pricing for product that we are prepared to stand behind and that fully meets the customers' specification.

This industry has to be prepared to take a new approach otherwise it will always get the same result.

Posted by PeterV, 20/08/2009 12:25:07 PM
What a good idea, Jaycie! Big and graphic photos of flyblown sheep on the front page of the rural papers will do the the Merino industry no end of good. Why didn't I think of that?
Posted by polyester, 20/08/2009 12:40:04 PM
Interesting idea, Jaycie, pictures like that should clinch any wool garment sale and would complement AWI’s new marketing strategy. Pictures of flystruck ewes, lambs and mulesing from the high street retailer's entrance to the cash register and maybe a graphic video of what you suggest front and centre of the window display, as a customer puller!!!
Posted by piece maker, 20/08/2009 12:53:44 PM
It is clear that the wool industry is galvanising into two distinct sectors. The first, non-mulsed wool producers, who are responding to consumer sentiment and embracing change in their marketing and production practices, and a second group of producers focused only on production matters and who believe auction sales equal marketing.

Unfortunately, the opinions of this group are vocalised by the traditionalist minority yet funded by the whole, care of the compulsory AWI levy.

Posted by cottonman, 20/08/2009 1:20:51 PM
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