Heavy winter snow creates good fruit set and crunchy apples the following year.

Growing fruit on slopes facing sheer mountain peaks, orchardist Greg Mouat believes the altitude and deep chocolate-coloured soil will safeguard his industry against a rush of unprecedented imports.

Under free trade agreements, imported apples are likely despite growers' biosecurity fears, first from New Zealand and eventually from China, the world's biggest apple producer.

Mr Mouat says Australia won't hold out against China, its biggest trading partner and highly prized for a fearsome appetite for minerals.

''Horticulture will be the sacrificial lamb,'' he said. ''But let's look at the positives. I'm bullish about the future, I'm not spooked, the industry will take a hit and we'll knuckle down and fight our way through.''

Mr Mouat is one of 35 growers who belong to Batlow Apples Fruit Co-op.

In a good year they'll produce about 10,000 tonnes of fruit and turn over $35million, backed by a formidable brand name.

In the little town of 1400 people off the main highway, quaint notes in a milk bar window advertise red wriggler worms for $5 and Indian runner ducks for $10.

Yet Batlow is a sophisticated fruit industry leader. The orchardists were the first to stick their brand on to their apples and while consumers cursed those fiddly stickers, the rest of the industry followed them.