It is safe to assume that Australian agriculture will always ride on export-orientated commodity food production. The mathematics of producing food enough for 60 million in a country of 21 million says so.
At the same time, it would be a mistake for agricultural policy to be only geared for this outcome. The possibilities of small-scale, high-quality food and fibre production are large: greater diversification of land use, more return per hectare, more people on the land, more jobs, a broader base for agricultural produce.
All these tantalising prospects were on show at Terra Madre, the Slow Food gathering of small producers and those who use their products, and the associated food exhibition Salone del Gusto - a display of food and production prowess that really earned the accolade of “awesome”.
Salami from pigs that free-range in a certain forest; oysters from a bay in Scotland; cheeses produced from a few hectares of a special mountain pasture; coffee harvested wild from Ethiopian forests. The Salone shows that there are more ways to produce food, in more places, than most of us have ever thought of.
Australia could seize this concept of small-scale “artisan” production and make it a part of its landscapes. We are uniquely endowed with micro-climates, from alpine to desert to tropics, and with technical know-how.
We don’t have the traditions that have incrementally shaped the foods of older countries over centuries, but as we have shown with wine and cheese, that doesn’t have to be an impediment. We can take the best of the old and create the best of the new.
But this concept falls apart under the notion of free trade. Australia’s faithfulness to the principles of free trade have served it well in commodity food production - despite the faithlessness of others’ interpretation of free trade - but the concept of trading on price alone can’t build communities of small scale farmers.
With our farm sector haemorrhaging under a range of issues - food and currency price swings, climatic challenges, an ageing farmer population and unfair “free trade” - it’s a good time for Australia to think about how it builds a diverse, resilient domestic food system that adheres to the Slow Food principles of “good, clean and fair”.
One challenge would be re-educating Australian consumers about value, especially when it comes to “good” and “fair”.
But the biggest issue would be confronting a trading system that allows - to take one instance - inferior bleached Chinese garlic to dominate our supermarket shelves when we are capable of producing outstanding garlic ourselves. And to allow local production to flourish in a way that doesn’t harm our international markets for meat, milk, grain and wool.
It would be a tightrope act, but necessary, if we take the Slow Food approach and consider food production not just as another contributor to GDP, but as a driver of environmental and social as well as economic outcomes.
Australia needs two food production systems: one that operates on the international market, and is built around economies of scale; and a purely domestic system that is protected from globalised economics and built to serve the health and welfare of Australians and our environment.
Naive? Maybe. But the economic, ecological and social trend lines associated with our current agricultural systems suggest that we need a good, clean and fair alternative.